Nagoya Hikes: Kamado waterfall hike

By Sally Griffith | Sunday, Jun 1, 2008

Waterfalls, rice fields and an Edo period stone path through the mountains

It seems that the life of a foreigner in Japan falls into two basic categories. Either you are completely cut off from the outside world and the most exciting thing that happens is the mayors weekly announcements over the public PA systems, or you are in the middle of a big city and so overstimulated that you drink coffee to calm down. I've tried both, and usually I'd say they both have their points – except, that is, when you find yourself looking out the window on a sunny day and seeing nothing but smog and hearing nothing but noise.

If you'd rather spend a day in the land of Totoro than Bladerunner, then get yourself to your nearest JR station and grab a walking tours book. There are quite a few to choose from, both group walks and do—it-yourself hikes. The walk from Kamado is of the latter variety, and can be found either online at the website below or in a blue pamphlet with a woodblock picture of some people crossing a bridge on it on the front.

This was a great experience from the beginning. After chatting with the very friendly JR staff member (who gave us some supplementary maps, well worth getting) we were pointed in the right direction through the small town of Kamado. We saw the first of the markers, which were consistently clear and easy to find, making finding our way a breeze. After seeing a temple, we headed up towards a nature park featuring seven waterfalls, passing mossy Buddhas on the way towards the falls, which had small shinto shrines by them.

We stopped for lunch near one of them and saw our first tsutsume-bachi for the day – a giant wasp famous for having incredibly poisonous venom in its sting, and also, thankfully, for being a pretty peaceful sort of a creature as long as you don't mess with it's nest. Japanese people generally pay them no heed, but I'm sorry to say that we still scream like little girls and run like hell. It is entirely possible, I suppose, that we've never seen one of the true tsutsume-bachi, but only giant bees – I've never stayed around long enough to find out.

The path then led us out of the park and along a quiet road. There were natural springs along the way, and we filled our bottles before continuing on through a rice farming area. The rice was only just being planted, and the irises were reflected in the still water. Huge butterflies, the size of small birds, fluttered past, as did yellow and brilliant blue specimens. I expected to see Mei around every corner.

The road became steeper, and the rice fields changed to tea plantations. The track then turned and took us back into the forests, on an old Edo period highway made of blocks of stone. Nowadays it is a very tranquil road, going past what seems to be some old tombs as well as a few good picnic spots. Next the signs led us towards a small, quaint village, and then doubled back on itself and began to take us back to Kamado station.

The last part of the walk was mainly on the road, but what a road it was. We were there in time for the last of the wisteria and its scent filled the air as we walked through kilometers of Japanese Maple trees. It must be breathtaking in autumn. Thoughtfully, the last section of the walk is downhill all the way so our tired legs could take a break as we enjoyed the view.

This is a marvelous walk – excellently marked, not too difficult and beautiful every step of the way. The best thing is you can go whenever you like – the path will be marked until the end of March 2009, when JR will renew their walking brochure. Give it a go – you'll come back tired, but very refreshed.

Website: http://walking.jr-central.co.jp/permanent/detail/16.html 

Getting there: Kamado is on the Chuo line, just before Nakatsugawa. The fare is 950 yen one way from Nagoya.

No Japanese? Well, it won't be impossible, but it would help if you could at least read さわやかウォーキング (Sawayaka Walking). The signs are generally white with red arrows on them – the only ones of that type in town – but there are a couple of forks in the park where the signs are wooden like all the other signs.

Further information: If you've got the blue Sawayaka Walking brochure from JR, it is on pages 37 and 38. The hike is 13.5 km long and theoretically takes about three and a half hours, but that's moving at a good pace. It's probably best to allow at least four and a half hours. There is some climbing, but it's not too bad if you're reasonably fit. The paths are partly dirt and stone and partly paved roads, so wear suitable shoes. Bring lots of water, but you can refill your bottle along the way. There are public toilets on route, but be warned, they're not plentiful, especially on the latter half of the walk!

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Sally Griffith is an Australian living, working and writing in Nagoya. She also writes hot spring and sento reviews under the name of The Naked Gaijin.

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